Jackie Kennedy’s Jewelry Legacy: Elegance and Evolution
Jackie Kennedy Onassis redefined the role of the First Lady, leaving a lasting impact on fashion, interiors, and jewelry. Her unique style and taste evolved alongside her life’s key moments, from her time in the White House to her later years as an independent woman.
A Distinct First Lady with a Passion for Preservation
As one of the youngest presidential couples, Jackie and John F. Kennedy brought a fresh perspective to the White House. Jackie’s love for France and its preservation efforts influenced her approach to remaking the White House, ensuring it reflected the country’s cultural legacy. This same impulse led her to found the White House Historical Association in 1961, securing funding for restoration and preventing the loss of precious artifacts.
Her appreciation for historic and heirloom-quality pieces extended to her jewelry collection, which she curated and redesigned on her own terms. Jackie’s style was sophisticated, modern, and imbued with a European sensibility, reflecting her personal shifts and the influence of mentors like Diana Vreeland.
A Jewelry Collection That Evolved with Her Life
Jackie’s jewelry choices can be understood in three major arcs, aligning with her marriages and assertion of independence. She collected, redesigned, and rewore pieces from renowned jewelers like David Webb, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels.
One notable piece is the antique diamond clip she wore as a hair accessory, purchased in 1961 from Wartski’s in London. To offset the cost, Jackie traded in several existing pieces, including a large aquamarine and a diamond clip from her wedding.
Another signature piece is the Jean Schlumberger Croisillon bracelet, gifted by her confidante Rachel Lambert “Bunny” Mellon. Jackie loved the bracelet so much that she began collecting variations, and the press eventually nicknamed them the “Jackie” bracelets.
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Jackie’s relationship with David Webb began before her time in the White House, with some pieces dating back to the 1950s. As First Lady, she commissioned Webb to create gifts for visiting dignitaries using American minerals, showcasing the country’s beauty and creative capabilities. One famous piece is a pair of chandelier earrings featuring cabochon emeralds and rubies, which she wore to a bullfight in Spain and the Metropolitan Opera.
Her engagement ring, attributed to Van Cleef & Arpels, is a toi et moi design with a 2.84-carat Colombian emerald and a 2.88-carat emerald-cut diamond. She later redesigned the ring in 1962, replacing the baguette-cut diamonds with marquise-cut stones and adding round brilliant-cut diamonds along the band.
Despite owning an extensive collection, Jackie rarely wore the 40-carat marquise-cut diamond gifted by her second husband, Aristotle Onassis. She consistently gravitated toward quieter, more elegant pieces, often rewearing her favorites rather than relying on the most ostentatious ones.
Jackie’s Fashionable Influences and Personal Style
Jackie Kennedy Onassis’s fashion sense was shaped by her surroundings and relationships. Her sister, Lee Radziwill, and mentor, Diana Vreeland, played key roles in her early exposure to high fashion. She became a client of renowned designers like Givenchy and Valentino, whose creations she wore during significant life events, including her marriage to Aristotle Onassis in 1968.
Jackie’s Jewelry and Her Legacy
The 40-carat marquise-cut diamond gifted by Aristotle Onassis, however, was rarely worn by Jackie. This massive stone, discovered in Lesotho, South Africa, was a symbol of her second marriage, but it didn’t align with her preference for quieter, more elegant pieces.
A Lasting Impact on the Role of the First Lady
In the end, Jackie’s legacy is one of elegance, sophistication, and a deep appreciation for history and culture. Her jewelry collection, with its unique stories and personal touches, remains a fascinating glimpse into the life of one of America’s most iconic First Ladies. The antique diamond clip she wore as a hair accessory, the Jean Schlumberger Croisillon bracelet, and the David Webb chandelier earrings are just a few examples of the enduring pieces that continue to inspire and captivate.
